Thursday, 31 October 2013

Croissants and Pain aux Raisin




Croissants are one of the most beautiful creations in the pastry world.  Their history is probably the most disputed, with almost every European nation laying claim to them.  

The most historically correct version of events took place in Austria, during the battle of Vienna.  The city was under siege by the Turks.  Unable to penetrate the city walls, the Turks decided to dig tunnels under the city wall, in secret, and ambush the Austrians.  

Whilst digging their tunnels under the cover of night, they were heard by the bakers who were awake in the wee hours in their underground kitchens.  The city defenders were alerted and the Turks failed in their attempt to take Vienna. 

To celebrate, a pastry in the shape of a crescent (as seen on the Turkish flag) was created, giving us the croissant.

Croissants were introduced to France by the most famous French Austrian immigrant, Marie Antionette.

 Their popularity goes without saying..I've yet to meet a person who has not tried one and does not love them.


Attempting to make them has been intensive, with the battle between fresh and dry yeast being the main issue.  There are many recipes for both. Long story short, dry yeast wins.  It is more readily available, does not leave the finished product tasting like yeast and you yield the same level of rise.

To make, place flour into your mixer.  Make a well in the centre and add the yeast and milk.  Sprinkle a little bit of flour over the top and leave it for a few moments to bubble to ensure yeast activation (I would hate to think of someone going to all that trouble and the yeast is old and does not activate!)

Slowly add the water and melted butter.  Mix until combined. Add the salt and sugar and continue to mix until a sticky dough forms.

Knead the dough on a lightly floured bench for 10 minutes.  Dust dough with flour to reduce its stickiness.  Place the dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave it to rise for a minimum of 3 hours, although I yielded better results when put in the fridge overnight.

Roll the dough into a rectangle that is 3 times longer than it is wider.  




Spread half the softened butter over the center third.  Fold the top third over the butter.  Spread the remaining butter onto the folded section and cover with the bottom third.



Turn the dough 90 degrees.  Roll the pastry to the same size it was originally (before the butter was added) and fold it in three again.  Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
Repeat this rolling out, folding and refrigerating process a total of 4 times.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celcius.  Line a baking tray with baking paper.  



Roll out the dough into a rectangle that is 3mm thick.  Cut out triangles (the larger the triangle, the larger the croissant).




Roll each triangle (starting with the base) up onto itself to form a croissant.  Bend the ends in order to form a crescent shape.


Space the croissants out on the baking tray and leave them to rise.  When they have increased by 30% of their original size, coat with egg wash.




Bake for 10 minutes until golden.  Be warned, butter will bubble out of them while they are baking.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool.



The result is a light, crispy on the outside fluffy on the inside crescent of baked bliss.

The ingredients:

500g plain flour, sifted
7g dry yeast
1 Tbsp milk, lukewarm
260ml cold water
25g butter, melted
1 tsp salt
55g caster sugar
250g butter, softened
1 egg, beaten for egg wash




The making of this pastry can be utilised to make other products.  One in particular that I have chosen to focus on is pain aux raisins.


Pain aux raisins are by far my personal favorite.  I ate them all over France, and noted two major variations.  I found that they were either dense and bread like or light and layered.  I preferred the latter.  Researching them, I have found that they can be made using brioche dough or crossaint pastry.  

I have had a lot of fun making these and am quite pleased that I can make them.  They are beautiful eaten warm with glaze still dripping from them.  Here is the recipe:


Pain aux raisins

1 portion, crossaint pastry
1 cup raisins, soaked in warm water, drained

Pastry cream:
300g milk
100g caster sugar
1/4 cup plain flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla essence

Glaze:
140g icing sugar
2-3 Tbsp water
1/4 tsp vanilla extract

Roll out the pastry to a rectangle measuring 15 x 20cm and 21/2 cm thick.

Make the pastry cream by mixing sugar, flour and salt together.  In another bowl, blend egg yolks together then whisk in the flour mix until combined.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk until bubbles form on the edges.  Pour slowly into the flour mix, whisking constantly.  Place mixture back into the saucepan and onto medium heat.  Whisk continuously for 3 minutes until it is thickened.

Place plastic wrap over the pastry cream, with the plastic in direct contact with the cream.  Refrigerate until cold.

Spread the cream evenly over the dough.  Sprinkle raisins over the top of the cream.

Starting from the end furtherest away from you, roll the pastry towards you into a roll.  Cut off the ends to make them clean and even.


Cut the roll into ten equal slices, 2 cm wide.  (At this point you can wrap each piece individually in plastic wrap and freeze for 1 week.  To thaw, place in fridge overnight or onto the benchtop for 3 hours then proceed as follows).


On a baking tray lined with baking paper, place each piece cut side down, spaced evenly.
 
Cover lightly with plastic wrap and proof in a warm place for 2 hours until dough is light and airy.

Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celcius.  Bake in the centre of the oven for 20-30 minutes until golden.

Make the glaze by mixing ingredients together.  Spread the glaze liberally while they are still warm.








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